It’s a situation I see happen far too often to brands. I hate to see it. The brand has developed a design with a full package production factory. Then, for various reasons, the brand wants to move to a different factory, but they don’t have their patterns. The factory made them and they won’t release them.
Now the brand is faced with a choice between staying with the factory that is no longer an ideal fit, or moving on and starting over. Neither choice is ideal, but a decision has to be made.
So, if the brand decides to leave, what can they do to move forward? Let’s take a look at each of the options.
Ask for the pattern files
Just because the factory made the patterns, doesn’t necessarily mean that they won’t give them to you. It depends on your contract with them. Did they charge separately for patternmaking and sampling? If so, you’ve paid for the pattern and they should give you a copy of the files.
If the cost of patternmaking and sampling was “free” – basically meaning it was rolled into the full package price for production – then you don’t own the patterns. This is true even if it was your original design. You can still ask for a copy of your patterns and tech packs, but just know that they might not release them to you or they may charge you a fee to do so.
Switching factories, especially when there has been some sort of falling out with your current factory, can be a delicate business. Keep this in mind as you ask for your pattern files. Asking for your pattern files suddenly can put the factory on their guard if they were unaware you were looking at other options. A kind and professional request and the right timing are crucial.
Start fresh with new products
If you can’t get your pattern files, the easiest thing to do is to leave existing products alone and start fresh with new products going forward. Switching to a new factory doesn’t have to be an all or nothing transition.
If your current factory works well with your existing products, you can have them continue producing those older styles while working with a new factory for any new style production. If leaving your current factory isn’t an urgent necessity, this is a great way to keep your business going while you onboard with a new factory and process. You can eventually move away from your initial factory entirely, but this approach buys you more time to ensure that switching to the new factory is the right move.
If your collections change frequently anyway, you might even be able to afford to archive all the old styles and start over with all new. This can be a bit more risky than a slow transition, but gives you a completely clean slate to move forward with.
As you develop new styles – either all at once or slowly – remember not to fall into the same trap as what got you here in the first place. I always recommend that brands own the rights to their patterns and keep copies of all their pattern and tech files. This gives you more control and more freedom over where you produce!
Whether you switch to another full package factory or work with an independent patternmaker like myself to create your new patterns, check to see if you are paying separately for development and confirm who has the rights to work.
Redevelop existing products
If you can’t get your patterns and can’t continue to work with your current factory who made them, your only option is to redevelop your existing products. This is the situation I am always heartbroken to see. Brands in this situation have to start over and reverse-engineer their products from scratch.
Unfortunately, having inventory or a sample of each product does not really save time or money in re-development. You still have to go through all the steps of product development including patternmaking, sampling, fitting, adjusting, resampling, grading, etc. You just have a super clear idea of what you want because you are trying to match your existing products.
Preparing for the future
No matter what option you choose to move forward with for your brand, there are things you can do to set yourself up for future success. First, go into any future partnership with a factory or patternmaker with open eyes and a full understanding of what terms and options are the best fit for your brand. There is not necessarily a right or wrong arrangement as long as both sides know what they are agreeing to and what the implications of each choice are.
Try to gather as much technical information about your products as possible even if you can’t get the pattern files. Maybe you can get a graded spec sheet or size chart. Perhaps you can find out what mill supplied the material. Setting aside a size run of each style is never a bad idea. All of these things contain technical information that can help you and your new factory or patternmaker piece together your existing products as smoothly as possible.
If you find yourself in this situation where you can’t get the patterns for your styles, know that you are not the only brand that has found itself in this position. I know it sucks. Nevertheless, you do have options for how you can move forward.