If you don’t know how to measure your fit, then you’ll end up confusing yourself, your factory and your customers. Your measuring tape is your friend. Precise measurements keep your fit and communication consistent and it all starts with being clear on what exactly you are measuring and why. You can take garment measurements, body measurements, or both. Let’s look at when to use one type of measurement over the other.
When to use garment measurements
Garment measurements are the actual dimensions of the final product. They include wearing, styling, and design ease. Usually the garment measurements are larger than body measurements for each size, but can be the same or even smaller for tight fitting base layers and athelticwear.
On your graded spec chart
The graded spec chart is part of the tech pack and shows what the garment measures in each size for each of the points of measure. The spec chart is used to quality control samples and production and is set up to make measuring a flat garment easy.
Comparing samples
Taking garment measurements from a reference sample is the best way to quantify a fit that you like. (Do keep in mind that fabric affects the fit, so it is best to use the garment measurements of samples with a similar fabric to your design.) Your patternmaker can help you compare these reference garment measurements and decide on the best specs for your design and intended fit.
Key measurements on product pages
Providing some key garment measurements to your customers helps them make a more confident and informed decision about what size to order. Garment measurements like inseam length for pants and shorts, total length for tops and dresses, or sleeve length are common measurements you’ll see on customer-facing product pages.
When to use body measurements
While garment measurements are the size of the product, body measurements are the size of the person who will wear the garment. These measurements do not include any ease. To take accurate body measurements, have the person wear typical undergarments and fitted clothing. As a patternmaker, getting accurate body measurements is a necessity. It is hard to create a pattern that fits if I don’t know who we are trying to fit!
Selecting your fit model
You have to know what size body your brand fits in the first place. This is the first thing I do when I work with a brand on the pattern and development of their design. The fit all starts with your fit model. The fit model represents your average customer in body shape, size, and proportions. Her body measurements then become the basis of your brand’s fit and size chart. Don’t just rely on her self-identified size, size she usually wears in other brands, or the size you think she is in your brand. It is crucial to get precise body measurements so you have an objective standard for your fit.
Referencing fit standards
When creating a consistent and trusted fit for your brand, it can be useful to reference size standards like those created by ASTM or Alvanon. These standards list body measurements for each size based on years of research and millions of real body measurements. You can compare these standards to your fit model, dress form, or 3D avatar’s measurements to ensure you are fitting on a consistent body type and size.
On your size chart
The size chart is the customer-facing chart that shows what body measurements correspond to each size in your brand. This chart is published on your website so that customers can compare their measurements and select the best size. The size chart reveals what size body each of your sizes is intended to fit. Bust, waist, and hip circumference are the typical body measurements found on a size chart. Looking at the ratio of these three body measurements, your customers can also see if your brand caters to a curvy, straight, or full-bust fit.
When to use both garment and body measurements
There are times when I recommend using both garment and body measurements. Having both gives you greater control over the fit and more fit information with which to answer customer questions.
Determining ease during development
The best way to find out how much ease is needed for your design is to compare body measurements to garment measurements. If there is a garment you like the fit of, measure it and see how much bigger it is than your body measurements. The same can be done with your fit model. Noting body measurements in addition to garment measurements for samples helps you arrive at the perfect fit quicker.
Providing product information in your marketing
As discussed above, you can include key garment measurements in addition to the body measurement size chart on your website or product information. You can go one step further, though, and provide the body measurements of the models wearing the garments in the photos. Make sure to include what size garment the model is wearing alongside her measurements. This lets your customers compare their measurements to the model’s so they can better visualize how the garment would fit them. The more your customers can see themselves in the product, the more likely they will feel confident enough to buy!
The more precise measurements you take, the easier it is to create a consistent, good fit with your patternmaker, maintain that quality in production, and communicate it clearly to your customers. Part of that precision is knowing when to use garment measurements versus body measurements.