When something is not right with your garment or sample, how do you know what to fix? There are many steps in the production process that could be the cause. It could be a sewing problem you need to address with the factory sewers. It could be something the factory did when cutting the garment. Or it could be a problem the patternmaker needs to fix. Which is it? Here are signs to look for to know what type of problem you are dealing with. This is not a blame game, but rather a joint effort to solve the problem and create the best possible end product.
Indicators of a sewing issue
The evidence for sewing issues is in the seams. There can be many problems with the sewing quality, but only some of them can cause the garment to be out of spec.
Poor sewing quality
If you see sloppy, bunchy, or stretched sewing, this often results in out-of-spec measurements and poor fit. The quality of the stitching probably isn’t the only thing going on, though.
Wrong hem widths
You’ll want to check hem widths as well. If the pattern was made with one width of hem and the garment sewn with another, the measurement will be off. Check the tech pack or pattern to see what the hem depths should be and see if your sample matches.
Incorrect seam allowances
Another sewing issue that can cause your garment to be out-of-spec is incorrect seam allowances. Again, if the pattern was made using one seam allowances, but was sewn with a different allowance, there will be problems. Even if there is just 1/8th or 1/16th inch difference between the pattern’s seam allowances and what was actually sewn, this can add up. The more seams you have, the bigger the discrepancy. A basic shirt with side seams might only be off spec 1/4”, but a corset top with many seams could easily be an inch or more out of spec and fit like an entirely different size with just 1/8th inch difference in the seam allowance taken.
Turn the garment inside out and measure the seam allowance from the sewing line to the edge of the fabric. Does that match the seam allowances on the pattern? (Note, some types of seams have different finished widths than the full allowances. A trained patternmaker or technical designer can help you determine if the seam allowances are indeed the problem.) When the stitch type in the garment doesn’t match what’s in the tech pack, that is definitely a sign to investigate more.
Problem asymmetry
With any issue you encounter with your garment, see if it is symmetric (assuming the garment design is symmetric). When one side of a symmetrically designed garment fits or measures differently than the other, my primary suspect is the sewing. This is because patterns are made for half the garment and mirrored for the other half of a symmetric style.
Indicators of a cutting issue
Cutting issues can be a bit tricky to diagnose if you aren’t there to see the garments being cut. There are still some signs you can look for, though.
Out-of-spec measurements
Having an accurate pattern spec and measuring the garment are crucial pre-requisites to identifying any cut issue. If the sewing all looks neat and the seams and hems are all as requested in the tech pack, but the garment measures out of spec, this points towards a cutting issue.
Marker deviations
If you have the opportunity to see the cut marker, that will tell you a lot. If the piece’s cut lines strayed from the marker’s printed lines, there is the issue.
Torque or shrink
Some aspects of cutting issues are really fabric spreading issues. The actual cutting might be precise, but the problem was with how the fabric was laid out prior to cutting. If your garment is torqued or twisting, this means either the fabric was spread crooked or the pattern pieces weren’t laid out straight along the grainline. (It could also be due to a cheaply made fabric, so check the roll too.) If you are using a knit fabric and the garment is measuring wide, but short, this signals that the fabric was stretched too much during spreading or wasn’t rested before it was cut.
Scale
Another kind of cutting-related issue is problems with the marker. If the marker was printed at the wrong scale or with an uncalibrated plotter, your whole garment is thrown off. To see if this is the cause, check the cut up marker pieces against the pattern spec to see if the scale is different. I recommend always including a 10” by 10” square in digital files and on printed patterns so you or your factory can confirm the correct scale before cutting any garments.
Inconsistent measurements
Inconsistency in measurements across multiple garments when the sewing quality is good also points to a cutting issue. Inconsistent issues are the hardest type to identify and correct.
Indicators of a pattern issue
If the sewing and cutting look good and the garment meets the spec, but it still doesn’t fit, this means it is a pattern issue.
Problem symmetry
As mentioned above, patterns are created for half a symmetric design. Therefore, if there is an issue with the pattern, the problem will show up equally on both sides of the garment. If it is showing up on both sides, but unequally, it is likely a pattern issue along with something else.
Factory feedback
If your factory or samplemaker comes to you with concerns or issues in sewing, you’ll want to take a look at the pattern and make adjustments. The factory might need a different seam allowance for their machinery or the sewers may request a different notch placement to help them sew more accurately.
Impractical construction
Part of the sampling process is testing whether the theory and intention of the design work in practice. The pattern needs to be made with the fabric and appropriate construction in mind. If not, no amount of good cutting and sewing can compensate. Sometimes a construction is worth trying, but it might not end up being feasible for bulk production. In this case, the pattern needs to be adjusted to fix or prevent any issues.
There are lots of pieces and processes that go into creating well made and well fitting garments. When an issue arises, it is helpful to comb through each major step — sewing, cutting, and pattern – to find the root cause and correct it.