You’ve designed your collection and gone through the development process with your patternmaker. The next step is production! Each style needs to be onboarded to the factory and you want to ensure that the factory will be able to use the patterns that you and your patternmaker have worked so hard to perfect.
How do you know exactly what the factory needs you to send them to make use of their full potential? Let’s take a look at the different pattern formats that work for production (and those that don’t) as well as how to figure out which one you need.
Digital pattern file
The pattern format I’ve sent to factories the most over the years is a digital file. Digital is convenient for both US domestic and overseas factories.
The exact file type of a digital pattern could be the native software file (ie. .zip for Gerber, .pds for Optitex, .zprj for Clo) if the factory uses the same one. More likely, though, a digital pattern file means a dxf file. Dxf files are the most universal format that can be opened across CAD software types.
A digital file can also be a digital version of the marker. Instead of creating their own marker from the pattern file, the factory may request individual sizes or a full marker instead. Check with your factory to confirm what type of digital file will work best for their software and equipment.
If the factory has an automated cutter, they will be able to send digital dxf files straight to the cutting machine without ever needing to print out the marker. This method saves time and paper, but is best for smaller runs or on-demand production as the automated cutter can’t cut through very many layers of fabric at once.
If the factory cuts manually, they will print out a marker from the digital pattern file that will be cut with the fabric.
Even if you end up printing markers for the production order, I recommend getting a copy of your patterns in the native format as well as dxf if the patterns were drafted or graded digitally.
Printed marker
For manual cutting without an automated cutter, production orders will each need a printed marker. This is the layout of each piece in each size for each fabric type that uses the fabric width efficiently. This marker gets cut up with the layers of fabric and is a one-time use.
Regardless of the format of the original pattern, printed markers are still the most common way to cut production orders. Even though each marker can only be used one time, the factory cuts in bulk by stacking the fabric in many layers and cutting them all at once with the one marker. The marker file can be saved and reprinted for future production orders as long as the same ratio of sizes is being cut again.
If the factory does not have their own CAD system or plotter, you’ll be responsible for printing the paper marker and sending it to the factory.
Paper or oaktag pattern
Paper or oaktag (also called manila) patterns are ideal for very small runs, samples, or on-demand production. Each pattern piece will need to be laid out on the fabric individually, traced, and then cut each time. Unlike a marker, these pattern pieces will be used over and over again. Oaktag is a great choice as it is durable and holds any sharp corners nicely without fraying.
Many “cottage industry” or maker-focused brands that produce in-house use paper patterns for their production. It works well for their business model and workflow. Samplemaking during product development also often uses paper patterns. (Sometimes patterns aren’t digitized or graded until after the base-size development is complete.)
Formats acceptable in rare situations
Adobe Illustrator
Adobe Illustrator is not a usable production format in most cases. It is not directly compatible with CAD patternmaking software or with automated cutting machines. Patterns made in Adobe Illustrator can’t be directly imported to a marker-making program or printed on an industrial plotter either.There is one case, though, where Adobe Illustrator can be used for production.
Garments with lots of custom placement graphics like sports uniforms can be printed directly to fabric with both the artwork and cut layout. To do this, the pattern piece shapes are imported to Adobe Illustrator and filled with the artwork. A roll to roll or flatbed printer essentially stamps the artwork plus pattern outline of each piece to the fabric and an automated cutter “sees” the outlines and cuts out each piece. This only works to cut one layer at a time and most garment types would not be appropriate for this production method.
In any other production scenario, Adobe Illustrator is best used for artwork and graphic design and not for patterns.
PDF document
Like Adobe Illustrator, PDF documents aren’t industrial CAD formats. Most plotters used to print markers can’t accept this format and it doesn’t contain the information that a CAD patternmaking program needs. The only time a PDF can work for production is if you need paper patterns and the only wide-format printer you have access to is one at a copy shop.
Formats not acceptable for production
Tissue paper
Patterns printed on tissue paper like those found in an envelope for home sewing can’t be used for garment production. If you’ve ever sewn with one of those and fought to keep the delicate paper from tearing while you cut one garment, you understand how this format isn’t feasible at an industrial scale.
Letter-size tiled printouts
Again, what can work for a one-off sample or sewing for yourself at home isn’t practical for factory production. It is less accurate and, let’s be honest, who wants to pay for someone to tile and tape together pages for a whole size run of patterns? There are much more effective and cheaper options for production.
Nested printouts
It is okay if the digital pattern file is nested (in fact, it should be), but to cut the style for production, each size needs to be separated. Whether you are sending a digital dxf file to an automated cutter, printing a marker, or getting oak tag patterns made, sizes can’t overlap when you go to use them for production.
The best way to prepare for production and make sure you have the right pattern format is to ask your factory early on. Even as you first start product development, you can ask your factory what formats are compatible with their system and which they prefer. If you do, you are setting yourself up for a smoother transition to production. Your factory will appreciate it.
I have a whole questionnaire that I send to my client’s factories getting their preference on file formats, automated cutter details, and pattern and marker preferences. It has saved so much time and stress as styles get onboarded to the factory!