Finding a fit model for your brand isn’t something to just check off the list. It is a strategic decision that shapes the fit of your entire product line. Asking an agency for models in size 8 or matching someone to the bust, waist, and hip measurements on your size chart is not enough.
Size and measurements are important aspects to consider, but there are so many others that matter too. Here are additional things to look for to find the right fit model for your brand.
Cup size
For women, cup size isn’t fully captured in a simple bust measurement. Cup size is the relationship between the bust and the underbust measurements. One woman might have a small cup size and a larger rib cage or back while the other has a narrow rib cage and back, but fuller bust and both have the same bust measurement. Garments fit differently on different cup sizes.
This is not just important for brands designing intimate apparel. A pattern is made for a particular cup size (or range – some designs are more forgiving). Grading will change the size, but not the cup size. You want to choose a fit model with a cup size that represents your target market in order to fit them the best.
Shoulder slope
This is not a measurement most people take, but the fit of every garment literally hangs on this. This is not the width of the shoulders, but the angle at which they slope away from the neck. Sometimes this measurement is expressed in degrees, but it can also be measured as a vertical drop from the high point shoulder (where the shoulder meets the neckline).
If the garment shoulders are too sloped for the person, you’ll notice a gap at the sides of the neckline or you’ll see the front neckline collapse into horizontal or arced folds. For open front or vest styles, you’ll see the front hem swing out and away from the center.
If the garment shoulders are too square for the person, you’ll see drag lines extending up around the armhole or see center fronts start to scissor and criss-cross.
Every body is slightly different, so it is hard to perfectly fit the shoulder slope of every one of your customers (unless you are making bespoke clothing). Still, I recommend paying attention to shoulder slope when you are selecting a fit model. Try to find someone as close to your average customer as possible.
Posture
How we stand, sit, and move affects the fit of our clothing. This posture needs to be taken into account when developing the fit of a brand or product. The roundness of the shoulders, the length of the back compared to the front, and the balance of the garment are all affected by a person’s posture.
Posture changes with age and also occupation or activity. Older people tend to have rounder backs and shoulders. People who sit at an office all day may develop a slouchy posture. Musicians, on the other hand, are trained to sit with very straight posture. Cup size even changes posture too!
Notice how your customers stand – not while posing, but naturally when they aren’t thinking about it. Fit on a model that shares a similar posture to your target market.
Body symmetry
None of us are perfectly symmetric. However, we typically fit and balance garments to be symmetric. It is more cost-effective for production and makes more sense for fitting a wide range of individuals. For most people, symmetric clothes fit just fine and, for those it doesn’t, they can get it tailored.
Because patterns are drafted symmetrically, it is easiest to fit on someone who is close to symmetric. There are enough variables in fitting garments that I don’t recommend adding asymmetry to the equation. Unless, of course, you know your target market shares a particular asymmetry.
Steady weight
Development timelines are months (or sometimes over a year) long. Within that time, you’ll typically hold multiple fittings for each style. In order to dial in the fit, your fit model needs to be the constant. Use the same fit model for the whole development. If you can use the same model for multiple seasons or collections, even better!
For this reason, a fit model needs to maintain a fairly consistent weight and measurements. A professional fit model works hard to do this. You can use a friend or team member as a fit model for your brand, but they need to be prepared for what the role entails.
Age
We already talked about how age changes posture, but it also changes body shape. We carry weight differently as we age. Bust lines get lower. Proportions of waist to hip change. Mobility becomes more impaired at a certain point. You can make clothes to fit any age, body shape, or size, but only if you make your fit decisions based on someone who is that age, shape, and size.
If you are targeting 40-55 year old customer, don’t fit on a 17 year old. The same is true in reverse. Your fit model needs to be someone who represents your average customer.
Personal experience alignment
While not a requirement for a fit model, you can get the best feedback from a fit model if they are in your target market. For example, if you are fitting golf apparel, fit on a golfer. If you are designing for new moms, fit on a new mom. Their personal experiences bring a valuable perspective to the fit.
They are keenly familiar with the activity, lifestyle, or aesthetic and can help you anticipate fit issues that might arise. They are probably also familiar with what similar alternatives are in the market already and can offer insight to what makes your product different or better.
When you are choosing a fit model for your brand, go beyond their size. The measurements aren’t the only thing that fit is based off of. We need to go beyond basic bust, waist, hip, and height and look for target market alignment in other ways as well. You’ll make better fitting decisions and clothing the closer your fit model represents your target market.