I have a different strategy for writing POMs (points of measure) depending on when in the development process the pattern gets made and who makes it.
If I am putting together the graded spec sheet to send so the factory can draft the pattern, I will include more POMs for all the minute details and shaping. The factory has nothing other than the specs to go off of. If it isn’t on the spec sheet as a POM, you are leaving it up to chance.
If I am putting together the POMs and sending the tech pack along with an approved pattern to the factory, my POM-writing strategy is different. I don’t include quite as many POMs of all the minor details because the pattern already has those details established in how each piece is shaped and notated. The POMs are for quality control, not for drafting.
For example, imagine a back patch pocket like on a pair of jeans. If I was writing POMs for a patternmaker to draft from, I would include the following POMs:
- Pocket opening width
- Total pocket height at tallest point
- Total pocket width at bottom corners
- Pocket point height bottom of point to side corner along “y” axis
- Pocket placement down from waistband
- Pocket top placement from center back seam
- Pocket bottom corner placement from center back seam
If I was writing POMs to accompany an approved pattern, I would probably only include:
- Pocket opening width
- Total pocket height at tallest point
- Pocket placement down from waistband
- Pocket top placement from center back seam
The exact shape and corner bevel of the pocket along with the angle of the pocket placement is noted in the pattern itself. The specs above are enough to confirm that the correct pattern piece and size was used for the garment.
You can certainly include all the POMs regardless of when the pattern is being made, but the strategy and reasoning behind which need to be included changes.