Archives: patternmaking tag>

How To Know If A Fit Issue Is A Problem With The Pattern Or The Grading

As you review the samples, you notice something isn’t fitting quite right. The samples meet the spec so it isn’t a sewing or cutting issue. It must be something with either the pattern or the grading.
There are signs you can look for to uncover which it is.

What Happens To The Fit When You “Grade Up” A Pattern? Let Me Show You.

Fit, Patternmaking

Somebody has probably told you that you can’t just size up small patterns into plus sizes. Maybe you’ve been warned that grading up a pattern won’t produce as good of fit. It is true. But what does that actually mean? Technically, you can grade up a pattern endlessly, so why does it not fit as […]

How To Figure Out What Production Pattern Format You Need

Patternmaking, Production

Each style needs to be onboarded to the factory and you want to ensure that the factory will be able to use the patterns that you and your patternmaker have worked so hard to perfect. Here are the different pattern formats that work for production and let’s figure out which one you need.

Orchestrating Change in Concert Attire For Classical Musicians with Mercedes Smith of Blackstrad

How Fitting: design a slow fashion business that fits

Orchestrating Change in Concert Attire For Classical Musicians with Mercedes Smith of Blackstrad

00:00 / 59:32

Classical music is rooted in rich history, formality, and tradition – but does the musicians’ concert attire still have to be? Blackstrad founder and professional flutist Mercedes Smith thinks it is time for a change of pace in performance wardrobes. In episode 110, hear how she is designing new concert black attire that resonates with […]

How To Know If The Problem Is With The Sewing, Cutting, or Pattern

How To, Patternmaking, Production

When something is not right with your garment or sample, how do you know what to fix? There are many steps in the production process that could be the cause. Here are signs to look for to know if you are dealing with a sewing, cutting, or pattern problem.

Fashion Math (Solving For Style)

Costing, Industry Basics, Patternmaking

When people talk about fashion design involving a lot of problem solving, you probably didn’t think they were talking about math problems. It’s true, though. The solution to some of the problems you run into in fashion entrepreneurship do involve math.

Size-Inclusive Fit Starts With Size-Inclusive Design

Fashion Design, Fit, Sizing

Size-inclusive fit doesn’t just begin with grading more sizes of your pattern. It starts far earlier in the design stage. Size-inclusivity starts with how you think about your customer, conceptualize your designs, and consider each detail for different bodies.

3 Approaches To Printing Garments (And How They Affect Patternmaking)

Patternmaking, Product Development, Textile Print

Print (the textile design) and pattern (the garment sewing pattern) may start out separately in design and development, but they converge in production before they meet in the finished garment. The different ways the two can come together have pros and cons within the final product that need to be accounted for during development.

Prioritizing The People (While Still Being Profitable) with Kat Williford of Pamut

How Fitting: design a slow fashion business that fits

Prioritizing The People (While Still Being Profitable) with Kat Williford of Pamut

00:00 / 47:33

In episode 99, Kat Williford recounts how her brand Pamut has shifted over the years to sustain her and now her team through cross-continental moves, hard times, and new family priorities. Kat puts people first, but doesn’t miss a beat on the creative or the financial aspects of her business either. Hear how her thriving business […]

What To Do If You Can’t Get Your Patterns From Your Factory

Patternmaking, Production

It’s a situation I see happen far too often to brands. I hate to see it. The brand has developed a design with a full package production factory, but the factory made them and they won’t release them. So, what options does the brand have if they decide to switch factories?

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Archives: patternmaking tag>

How To Know If A Fit Issue Is A Problem With The Pattern Or The Grading

What Happens To The Fit When You “Grade Up” A Pattern? Let Me Show You.

How To Figure Out What Production Pattern Format You Need

Orchestrating Change in Concert Attire For Classical Musicians with Mercedes Smith of Blackstrad

How To Know If The Problem Is With The Sewing, Cutting, or Pattern

Fashion Math (Solving For Style)

Size-Inclusive Fit Starts With Size-Inclusive Design

3 Approaches To Printing Garments (And How They Affect Patternmaking)

Prioritizing The People (While Still Being Profitable) with Kat Williford of Pamut

What To Do If You Can’t Get Your Patterns From Your Factory