In episode 22, I talk with Elizabeth Williams – founder, designer, and patternmaker behind the outerwear brand Coat Check Chicago. Elizabeth shares her journey from costume seamstress to New York fashion designer, to fashion professor and how the skills she gained through all these experiences now help her run her own brand. Elizabeth Williams resides […]
In general, I think that when people think of quality production, they think of quality sewing. While this is certainly true, it is what’s upstream of the sewing – like the pattern – that has the most control over the quality of the finished garment.
I get to work with amazing clients and be part of making clothes that fit the lifestyle, values, and bodies of real women. This year has been the busiest yet and I’ve had a lot going on behind the scenes. Today I’m excited to share a few exciting updates about Alison Hoenes Design!
I often get asked “should I make pattern blocks for each category before developing and launching my collection?” Blocks and slopers are what we all were taught to start with in fashion. However, I recommend a different approach that gets you testing your market quicker and is more efficient for future development.
With a finished sample already approved, having a pattern made for the garment will be simple and cheap, right? Actually, no, that is most likely not the case. Having a finished sample is great for reference, but isn’t going to save you much money when it comes to getting a production pattern made.
Product development is a time to test and tweak your design before mass production. Each step has a purpose to help you evaluate different aspects of the product and how it’s manufactured — from performance, to fit, to ease of care. Once the testing is done, you’ll have all the tools you need for production.
You may think you just got lucky finding a factory that would develop your patterns and make you samples for free as part of your production order. What you might not realize is that those “free” samples and development will cost you in other ways.
Fashion is a very old-school industry. At the same time, companies are adopting technology within their design, development, and production processes – including patternmaking – more and more. This transition to digital has brought up the question whether traditional paper patterns or digital ones are better. Here’s my take.
You’d be surprised how different the same design can be in different fabrics. I know this, and it still surprises me sometimes. The fabric has a big effect on the final garment. It dictates not only the look but also the fit and technical construction. Let’s look at how fabric affects each of these areas.
You may be wondering what you can expect at your first meeting with your patternmaker. At the meeting, your patternmaker will need to ask you questions about your design and business. Here are some questions your patternmaker will ask and why the answers are important to the success of your design.
